Three Weeks in Kerala and Tamil Nadu

Kochi and the tea hills

Fort Kochi's colonial-era streets, the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, the Paradesi Synagogue in Mattancherry and evening Kathakali performances make for a gentle start. The road east climbs into the Western Ghats to Munnar, where tea estates cover the hillsides and Eravikulam National Park protects the Nilgiri tahr, a mountain goat found only in these ranges. Walks through the plantations and visits to tea factories and museums fill the days.

Backwaters and cliffs

Alappuzha (Alleppey) is the main base for the Kerala backwaters, a network of canals, lagoons and lakes lined with villages and paddy fields. Overnight houseboat cruises are the classic option; state-run public ferries and small canoe trips through narrower channels cover similar scenery for far less. Further south, Varkala's red laterite cliffs above the beach are lined with guesthouses, cafes and yoga schools, and the town has a steady community of longer-stay visitors working remotely.

Temple towns of Tamil Nadu

Crossing into Tamil Nadu, the route reaches Madurai and the Meenakshi Amman Temple, whose towering gateway towers (gopurams) are covered in thousands of painted sculptures, and the Thirumalai Nayak Palace nearby dates from the seventeenth century. Puducherry (Pondicherry) offers a change of pace: the French Quarter's ochre streets, a seafront promenade and the experimental township of Auroville a short ride north. On the coast road towards Chennai, Mamallapuram's Shore Temple and rock-cut monuments form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Chennai, with Marina Beach, the Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore and a major international airport, closes the trip.

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Visas: Most nationalities need a visa before arrival. India's e-Visa covers many passports; the official Government of India e-Visa portal is the place to apply and to check current eligibility. Transport: Buses or a hired car for the hill roads between Kochi, Munnar and Alappuzha, trains along the Kerala coast and into Tamil Nadu, and buses on the East Coast Road. Weather: December to March is drier and less humid in Kerala. The southwest monsoon soaks Kerala from about June to September, and the Tamil Nadu coast receives most of its rain from the northeast monsoon, roughly October to December. Budget: The mid figure assumes private rooms in mid-range guesthouses and homestays, one overnight houseboat shared between two, air-conditioned train classes, a hired car for the hill-country legs and temple and site entry fees. Safety: Sea currents at Varkala and other Kerala beaches can be strong; hill roads are narrow and winding, and heat and humidity rise quickly from March. Government travel advisories are worth checking before departure.